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Army Painter Quickshade
(16-06-2012, 03:31 PM)Stuart Wrote: Next subject is another space marine, but this time based with GW Enchanted Blue (the colour I use for my Cygnar). I let the basecoat dry thoroughly this time, then gave the tin a good shake before applying the quickshade. Also applied a lot more, working it into the recesses with the brush. Looking better so far, I'll give it 24 hours then Dullcote it and see how it turns out.

Looks much better this one, although there was a bit of pooling that I missed at the base of the legs.

The experiment continues...

Figures painted in 2016: 4 Blush
"What this game needs is a panda with a chaingun."
Glad to see people trying the dip etc. I am still a big fan of the army painter strong tone dip. The key thing is you NEED the dip to pool (to a certain extent) and flow down the model - that's what gives the brilliant shading effects. Devlan mud covers too evenly to give the same effect - it is still great stuff but I use it now as a matt varnish (and extra contrast) after I "dip".

Here are some "white" figures:

The key thing here is NOT to use block colours prior to "dipping" - washes (60:40 mix of water:paint) give a much better contrast. None of the figures in the article above have any highlighting (other than on the faces). Similarly, the "black" is done with dark brown. Privateer Paints (P3 Paints) and Coat d'Arms Paints (the original "GW paints" from many years ago) are excellent for this - I'm afraid GW paints are not. Also, use big brushes - the figs above were mostly painted with a size 4 brush (yes, size 4, Pro Arte Prolene - available from art shops).

Finally, plan your painting time. Yes, the dip takes 24 hours to dry so paint it on last thing in an evening and it is ready for the next day. Give all undercoats 24 hours to dry - I use GW Skull White spray - they may look dry after a few mins but they are not. The dip is oil based - I use Polycleanse brush cleaner (the bright blue stuff, Homebase).
(12-07-2012, 01:16 PM)Doc T Wrote: Here are some "white" figures:

Those look amazing!

I think the trouble with my experiments so far is that none of my forces really have a "light" colour scheme. For my Cygnar I think the Dark tone may be better, and produce more shadowing and the sort of hard lines that I'm after.

Figures painted in 2016: 4 Blush
"What this game needs is a panda with a chaingun."
Hi Stu,

Scroll about half way down this article:

The blue used on these was Ultramarine blue applied as a wash. The coats are various washes of grey, khaki, dark yellows etc. A fairly close match for Cygnar?

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